How to Spend Chuseok in the City

Dancers perform the ganggangsullae or circle dance at the National Theater of Korea. / Courtesy of National Theater of Korea

By Cathy Rose A. Garcia Staff Reporter

Chuseok is one of the most important holidays in Korea. It's the time of the year when millions of Koreans head back to their hometowns to pay respects to their ancestors and celebrate the holidays with the family. This autumn homecoming is known to cause major traffic jams along the highways and crowded trains throughout the country.


Chuseok is always celebrated on the 15th day of the 8th lunar month, which falls on Sept. 14 this year. Koreans celebrate the holiday by holding ancestral rites such as ``charye'' and ``seongmyo,'' and spend time eating and drinking with the family.


Because the majority of Koreans leave the city during the three-day holiday, most department stores, restaurants, cinemas and theaters in Seoul are closed.

For people who are unlucky (or lucky, depending on your point of view) enough to be stuck in Seoul for the holidays, here are some choices to keep you entertained.

Experience Traditional Korean Culture

Expatriates living in Seoul can have a chance to experience Korean customs and traditions during Chuseok, through various activities and events at the palaces around the city.

Gyeongbok, Deoksu and Changgyeong Palaces are all open throughout the three-day holiday. Also open are historical sites such as Jongmyo Shrine, Jeongneung and Yeonghwiwon.

During Chuseok, Koreans usually play traditional folk games such as ``tuho'' (arrow throwing), ``jegichagi'' (kicking a shuttlecock), ``yut'' (a board game played by tossing sticks) and ``paengi chigi'' (spinning a top).

Visitors can have a chance to play these folk games at the palace grounds. On Sept. 14, dancers will stage ``nongak'' or farmers' folk dance at Deoksu Palace.

The Korea Tourism Organization (KTO) is holding special Chuseok events through Sept. 19 at the Tourism Information Center, located at the lower level of its building in downtown Seoul. Here, tourists can take photographs while wearing traditional Korean clothing or ``hanbok,'' and play different Korean games.

KTO staff will also give out ``bokjumeoni'' or good luck pouches to visitors. The KTO Tourism Information Center is located near Jonggak Station, Subway Line 1, Exit 5 or Euljiro 1-ga Station Subway Line 2, Exit 2. Call (02) 729-9497 to 9499.

Museums

Many museums and art galleries will be closed for the holidays, but the National Museum of Korea and National Folk Museum have organized events to give visitors a chance to learn about Korean culture and have fun during Chuseok.

The National Museum of Korea in Yongsan is the venue for a variety of traditional and modern Korean musical shows on Sept. 14 and 15. On Sept. 14, marvel at the skills of Korean ``jultagi'' or tightrope walker Kwon Won-tae at 1 p.m. At 3 p.m., visitors will be treated to comedy and magic by Boom's Head, and dance music by K-pop group Koyote. Performances from the fusion music group Crayons and excerpts from the Nanta show will be staged at 3 p.m. Sept. 15.

There are also free film screenings at the museum. Children and adults will enjoy watching films such as ``Mr. Gam's Victory'' (Sept. 13, 11 a.m.), ``Ratatouille'' (Sept. 13, 2 p.m.), ``Super Taekwon Boy'' (Sept. 14, 11 a.m.) and ``84 Taekwon Boy'' (Sept. 15, 11 p.m.).

The museum is currently holding a special exhibition for the 60th anniversary of the Republic of Korea, and smaller exhibitions on Asian and Indian art, and Silla clay figurines. Visit http://www.museum.go.kr/.

The National Folk Museum, located near Gyeongbok Palace, offers a wide range of activities to get locals and foreigners in the mood for Chuseok. Visitors can learn about traditional Korean crafts by painting masks and making lanterns and ``hanji,'' or mulberry paper. Children and adults can try their hand at making ``dasik'' or Korean tea cookies made of rice flour, honey and decorated with pretty patterns. Fees range from 3,000 won to 6,000 won.

The museum organized a special event for foreigners from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., Sept. 13, which involves learning how to wear a hanbok and how to make ``songpyeon.'' Only 40 slots are available.

The museum also has free events such as traditional games, film screenings and educational activities for children. Call (02) 3704-3105, 3134.

Performances

The National Center for Korean Traditional Performing Arts is presenting the ``Harvest Moon Day Festival Special Performance'' to welcome the first full moon on Sept. 14.

The program features Chuseok ritual featuring court music or ``sujecheon''; ``Chuseok nori'' (Chuseok play) with regional folk song medleys; and ``dalmaji madang'' (greeting the full moon) with ``jultagi'' or tightrope walking and ``ganggangsullae'' or the circle dance.

The audience is encouraged to participate in the ``ganggangsullae,'' which involves women singing and dancing in a circle while holding hands under the full moon.

Visitors can also try their hand at games such as ``seunggyeongdo nori'' (a board game played during Joseon Dynasty), and ``juldarigi'' (a tug of war).

Samples of ``sindo'' wine, made of new grains, and ``songpyeon,'' the half moon-shaped rice cake filled with chestnuts, jujubes, sesame and honey will be available. Songpyeon is traditionally eaten during Chuseok.

The event will be held at the NCKTPA grounds in Seocho-dong, Seocho-gu. Free admission for visitors who come with three generations of a family. Tickets are 5,000 won. Visit http://www.ncktpa.go.kr/.

Events Out of Seoul

Not all Chuseok events are concentrated in Seoul. The Korea Folk Village, located in Yongin, Gyeonggi Province, offers performances of traditional folk music, tightrope walking and ``masangmuye'' (martial arts while on horseback), as well as a reenactment of a traditional Korean wedding ceremony. Performances start at 11 a.m. and 2 p.m., Sept. 13-15. Call (031) 286-2116 or visit http://www.koreanfolk.co.kr/.

In Jindo, South Jeolla province, the National Center for Korean Namdo Performing Arts will stage ``Moon, Moon, Bright Moon,'' based on a folk song traditionally sung during Chuseok. Visit http://www.namdo.go.kr/.

In Gyeongju, North Gyeongsang province, the National Museum of Gyeongju is holding a ``Hangawi'' or Harvest Moon festival from Sept. 13-15. Museumgoers can play games, enjoy ``salmulnori'' performances, sample ``songpyeon'' and participate in other fun activities. Visit gyeongju.museum.go.kr.

On the Tube

Chuseok brings the family together, and for those who want to sit back and relax at home with loved ones, television networks are planning a fruitful schedule.

KBS is bringing a special documentary about Korean food with ``Getting Closer to Korean Food.'' The program will touch viewers with ancient recipes, history and other unknown facts about Korean cuisine and its culture. The two-episode program will air Sept. 12-13 at 10 a.m. on KBS.

MBC will bring multinational families to the television screens with ``2008 Best Foreign Daughter-in-Laws.'' Foreign daughter-in-laws from around the world, including Iran, Japan, Peru and Italy, will appear on the show and share their stories as newcomers to Korean culture. The program will air Sept. 15 at 8:30 a.m.

SBS has prepared ``Because I Like You,'' a program where five celebrities search for the ``Super Daddy'' within them. Five top stars including singer Kim Gun-mo, comedian Yoo Sae-yoon and boy group Super Junior member Kim Hee-chul, will realize the role of fathers and the importance of family by spending a whole day with a baby and a mischievous elementary school student. The show airs Sept. 14 at 10:50 a.m.

Stay glued to the TV screens watching forensics experts solve crimes on cable channel OCN's ``C.S.I.: 3 Days II,'' which will air episodes of C.S.I. New York, Miami and Las Vegas from Sept. 12 to 14.

MTV Korea will be airing seasons 1 and 2 of the American reality show ``The Hills'' Sept. 15, 9 a.m. to 12 a.m.

Shopping

The majority of the shops at COEX Mall, Itaewon and Myeongdong will be open during the holidays. However, Namdaemun market and Yongsan Electronics market are closed from Sept. 13 to 15. Shops along Insa-dong will be closed on Sept. 14, while department stores such as Lotte, Hyundai and The Galleria will be closed from Sept. 14 to 15.

cathy@koreatimes.co.kr